Erdem AW15

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Her room was perfect metaphor of her. Dark with rays of light coming through the window from the street lamps. It seemed to be messy but when you looked around carefully, you’ve started to realise that this is only seeming mess, that in fact everything has its own place and it is there on purpose. For a stranger, this room might seem to be cold but you knew this space so well that you could recognised the familiar warmth. Warmth which was there not for everyone but you knew that it was there for you. Every time when you were entering this room you were confused by certain type of duality. That was definitely a room of a self-aware woman but you also could notice some girly elements – cute, vulnerable and naive. The room was strangely beautiful. It was that kind of beauty which cannot be recognised and liked by everyone. But you knew it. You loved it. The room was filled with her. The room was like her. You could sense her presence but what you really wanted was to sense her. You wanted to feel her breath on your neck and her lips on your cheek. Her gentle touch. You wanted to see her face lighted up by the street lamps, her eyes looking at you in the darkness. Her tenderness and love.

And immediately you’ve started longing for her. You’ve started longing for her the way you longed for her at the beginning. And then you realised that maybe you’ve missed her, that maybe she’s gone.

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Erdem is the master of mixing past with presence, introducing silhouettes from past centuries in the most fresh and contemporary way. His collections are not only presentations of beautiful garments – they are stories told by the clothes.

Erdem AW15 show was even more than that – it wasn’t only a story, it was a performance. Not only because of the most incredible set design I’ve even seen at the fashion show but also because of the music, light, general atmosphere, choreography and the collection itself. Old Selfridges Hotel looked much more like a theatre than the show space. Everything what happened there was something more than watching a runway show – it was an experience.

Clothes seem to be reflection of the created rooms – beautiful, rich, aristocratic with a sense of loss or even decay. Feminine and girly at the same time. Beautiful metallic jacquards resembled upholstery, curtains and wallpapers. Richness of colours and fabrics was overcame by reversed seams and raw edges, delicacy of the lace was juxtaposed with laser cut leather, lightness of almost see-through dresses covered with tiny embroidery was presented next to furry coat and jacket in the leopard print. There were some strong colours in that collection – purple and red, green and blue with a touch of pink, brown and even black. In his AW15 Erdem didn’t forget about the flowers – the motif he is known for. Flowers covered all the dresses – from tiny embroidered ones to large 3-D poppies and peonies.

With no doubt it was one of the best collections at London Fashion Week this season and definitely one of the most beautiful shows I have ever seen.

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(Photos: Iza Rem)

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