Alexander Wang used to be one of those designers for whose collections I’ve been waiting with curiosity and excitement. I would never called him a fashion genius but he was definitely one of those designers who now what they do and who found their space in a fashion scene. He didn’t steal my heart with his collections for Balenciaga. What is more, when he became Balenciaga’s creative director I’ve started loosing interest in his designs.
I think he took too much on his plate and the creativity got lost somewhere in the numbers of looks he has to produce each year. It’s almost impossible to have your own line and design two main collections (autumn-winter and spring-summer, approx. 40 looks in each), two pre-collections (resort and pre-fall, approx. 30 looks in each), have another line – T by Alexander Wang (2 collection a year), to be a designer for one of the biggest fashion houses – Balenciaga and create two main and two pre-collections for them (not to mention the menswear) without loss on creativity and quality of the designs. In my opinion that is what happen to Wang – he got lost somewhere between New York and Paris. Neither the collections for his own brand, nor for Balenciaga were something really significant, something that will stay with you after watching the show, something you will be waiting to see in the magazines and shops, something you would love to have. From one of really hot names, Wang has become just one of the names on the fashion scene.
I wasn’t waiting for his AW15 show. I wasn’t curious to see his new collection. I was bored with overdose of sporty elements in his looks and disappointed by lack of something really interesting. I even forgot when his AW15 collection was meant to take place.
I saw one of the looks from Wang’s AW15 collection on my Instagram feed yesterday and was surprised. Positively surprised! My level of curiosity went up really high and has’t gone down until I saw the entire collection.
I don’t mind well-known combination of back and silver or punk and grunge references. I don’t mind that some of the looks and even hair and make up reminded me of Ann Demeulemeester designs (especially tailored jackets, coats, trousers) and that jumpers with rows of silver beads sent me back to Balmain collections from a few seasons ago. He seemed to play with what we all have already seen but he did it well. The entire collection was coherent and powerful. My favourite pieces were dresses (looks 3, 4, 6, 8 and 10), coats looking like boxing gowns and white jumpers.
Wang sent to the runway a gang of cool and naughty girls. Girls who are equality powerful wearing mini skirt as well as tailored trousers and jackets. Girl who wear their clothes as an armour, costume or just a daily outfit. Girls who can be whoever they want and how they want to be. Girls who set up their own rules.