I’ve never been a huge fan of Louis Vuitton. To be honest, I’ve never been a fan. I liked the most recent Marc Jacobs’ collections for the brand but that would be it. But I’ve always (ok, since I found out who he is) loved Nicolas Ghesquière. For me, he and Balenciaga was the match made in heaven. Totally. But (as we all know) even the perfect looking couple has a difficult time and although we would like to believe that true love happens only once and last forever, life shows that reality is slightly different. In this case I would say: thank God! Nicolas and Balenciaga split up but he wasn’t single for a long time. His new realationship (with Louis Vuitton) made wonders to my perception of the brand. Ok, let’s be honest, it’s still pure admiration of Nicolas Ghesquière but this time is Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton.
I didn’t know what to expect when he was showing his first collection for the house earlier this year. Probably I wanted to see a bit of ‘Balenciaga’s Ghesquière’ which was both silly and a bit naive. What I saw was the very best from Nicolas but in his new relationship. His new partner hasn’t changed him, didn’t repress his creativity but allow him to express it in a different way.
I also believe that Nicolas Ghesquière introduced Louis Vuitton to different clientele and that with Ghesquière’s designs Louis Vuitton is approaching younger customers. But younger not only in terms of age but also the way of perceiving and feeling fashion. His debut AW14 collection is full of 1960s references and shapes with very modern, 21st century touch. All of the runway pieces see to be very easy to wear which (in this case) is a huge plus. The collection seems to be a perfect mix between casual (sometimes even ‘sporty’) and more evening/elegant pieces. Although it suggests a few very strong looks it also leaves space for creativity and imagination and a chance to deconstruct the outfits and style them in a different way.
And again, like in life, I fall in love from the first sight with some of his designs. With others more time was required to find out if there is a chance for something serious between us. Well, with true love, I’m much more picky than with the clothes. But let’s get back to Louis Vuitton. And Nicolas. I’ve never thought that I would say that but he even made me like LV bags. Bags that I have always associate with big logos printed all over. Bags which were way to obvious and ‘tacky’ to even consider them as something I would even like to have.
Ghesquière didn’t forget about a LV monogram but he used it in a very clever and not so literal way. And he created a new object of desire for most of the fashionistas – ‘Petite Malle’. A trunk looking clutch bag has become a real hit and must-have item for AW14 season. Initially, this £2,600 arm candy was meant to be available in a very limited quantity but after a huge interest Louis Vuitton decided to produce some more although they are a subject of the special order with a waiting time around 4-6 weeks to get them done. I guess that Petite Malle which seem to be a seasonal item has a big chance to become a real statement piece. We saw it after some transformation in Cruise 2015 collection and I believe that it will share a story of bags like Chanel’s ‘Boy’, Givenchy’s ‘Pandora’ or Alexander Wang’s ‘Rocco’.
We saw Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton AW14 collection. We saw Cruise 2015 in May. So now it’s the time to wait what he will reveal for SS15. I can’t wait!
(All the photos come from Louis Vuitton look book shoot by Jürgen Teller.)